译研专栏|文化名家崔岱远带你吃遍中国——烤鸭（双语）
“逛故宫，吃烤鸭”已然成了外宾来北京必干的两件事。要说起来，这两件事还真有联系—都是随着明朝朱棣迁都来到北京的。不过那时候烤鸭并不叫烤鸭，而是叫“炙鸭子”，或者称为“南炉鸭”。
Visiting the Forbidden City and sampling roast duck are two must-do things when foreigners visit Beijing. Interestingly enough, these two things are connected in a certain way—both were brought to Beijing when Zhu Di, the third emperor of the Ming dynasty, moved the capital to Beiping (present-day Beijing). Only back then roast duck was not yet named “roast duck”; it was originally called “Zhiyazi” (grilled duck) or “Nanluya” (Nanjing oven duck).
我曾亲眼目睹了一位烹饪大师依古法制作“大明炙鸭子”。是用一柄三股钢叉把一只腌制好的鸭子串起来，举在明火上不停地翻转烤炙，直到鸭子焦香酥嫩。之后撕成一条条的，夹在用同样方式烤炙的空心烧饼里吃。当然，烤饼用的不是钢叉，而是把十几个烧饼坯贴在一张有着长柄的大铁铛上举着烤的。炙鸭子的味道着实不错，只是效率太低，若有十几桌客人等着吃，怕是伺候不过来，这大概正是它被淘汰的原因吧。
I once personally saw a master chef of Chinese cuisine cook “Daming Zhiyazi” in the traditional way. A seasoned duck was skewered on a steel three-tine fork, held over open fire to roast and constantly turned until it became crispy on the outside, tender on the inside and aromatic. Then the duck was torn into strips and served after being stuffed in hollow Shaobing baked in the same way. Steel forks cannot be used when baking Shaobing of course; instead, a dozen pieces of Shaobing dough were placed and baked on a big iron pan with a long handle. Zhiyazi tastes rather great indeed; only it takes too much time to cook. It is almost impossible to serve a dozen tables waiting at the same time. And this is probably the reason why it became obsolete.
便宜坊的焖炉烤鸭
后来，有了焖炉烧鸭，讲究“鸭子不见明火”。是用点燃的秫秸放入地炉里烘热炉膛，将十几只鸭子排放在铁篦子上关紧炉门，全靠炉壁的热力将鸭子烘熟。焖炉湿度大，鸭子走油少，烤出的肉暄嫩饱满、汁液充盈。北京有名的便宜坊现在还传承着这种老手艺。
Later on, there were closed oven roast duck in which case “the ducks are not exposed to open fire”. First, the earth oven is pre-heated by burning sorghum straws at the base, and then a dozen ducks are placed in lines on the iron griddles in the oven and the oven door is shut tight, so that the ducks are slowly roasted through the convection of heat by the oven wall. Thanks to the high humidity in the closed oven, more duck fat remains and the duck meat is tender and juicy. The famous restaurant Bianyifang still uses this traditional cooking technique nowadays.
当下流行的大多数烤鸭并非焖炉，而是挂炉—把十几只鸭子一并排挂在果木柴点燃的明火上烤炙。熊熊炉火把鸭皮下的脂肪彻底熔化，油水“滴滴答答”流个不停。师傅手握两米多长的挑杆，不断调换鸭子的位置。鸭子出炉时，但见他后手抽杆，前手一扭再用力一拉，枣红通亮的鸭子就借着惯性被悠出了炉门。
Most of the currently popular roast ducks are not cooked in closed ovens but hung ovens, where a dozen ducks are hung side by side and roasted over an open fire fueled by fruit wood. Fat under the duck skin melts over flaming fire in the oven and the grease continues dripping. The cook holds a pole more than two meters long and keeps dangling the ducks. When they are ready, he draws the pole with one hand in the rear and twists and pulls with another in the front, and the glowing claret ducks swing out of the oven by inertia.
有意思的是，挂炉烤鸭子并非干烤，而是在鸭坯的膀子下开个小洞，从这个洞取出内脏，吹鼓鸭身，灌进清水，之后再用丝线缝合，并用秫秸堵上鸭屁股。炉火一烤，清水沸腾，蒸汽把鸭膛胀鼓，鸭皮也撑开变薄。这样吃起来自然是外皮焦香薄脆，而肉却柔嫩滋润。
The funny thing is that hung oven roasting is not dry roasting. A small hole is made below the duck’s wing, through which it is eviscerated and air and water is pumped in. Then the trunk is sewn up with silk thread and the bottom is blocked with sorghum straw. When the duck is being roasted over the fire in the oven, water boils and steam blows the duck abdomen up, making the duck skin stretched and thin. So when served, the duck skin is crispy and thin whereas the meat is tender and succulent.
挂炉烤鸭的流行，得益于大名鼎鼎的全聚德。清末，前门外肉市胡同有家卖猪肉和生熟鸡鸭的小店，掌柜杨全仁见到焖炉烤鸭生意好，于是另辟蹊径，请到了御膳房专管烤猪的孙小辫儿，借鉴了烤小猪的方法改良了烤鸭，发明出了这道享誉世界的名菜。凭着这手绝技，全聚德也发展成了百年名店。只是这道菜最初并不叫烤鸭，而是叫烧鸭子。烤鸭的大名是从上世纪三十年代才叫起来的。
Hung oven roast duck became popular thanks to the well-known restaurant Quanjude. In the late Qing Dynasty there was a small deli selling raw and cooked pork, chicken and duck in Roushi (Meat Market) Hutong outside Qianmen. Its owner, Yang Quanren, seeing that closed oven roast duck had a good market, hired Small Braid Sun who was in charge of porker roasting in the Imperial Kitchen. By drawing from porker roasting, they improved the duck-roasting method and invented this world-famous dish. And with this unique dish, Quanjude kept growing and became a notable century-old restaurant. The only thing was that originally the dish was not known as roast duck but “Shaoyazi”. The name “roast duck” began being used in the 1930s.
北京烤鸭的经典吃法是用荷叶饼裹上鸭肉，抹上甜面酱，夹上葱丝，这种吃法是当初烤鸭从南京经过大运河传进北京的过程中在山东受到的影响。您看，那荷叶饼不就是一张精致的煎饼吗?而那抹酱夹葱的方式，无非是煎饼卷大葱的精细化。煎饼卷葱夹肉的吃法，衍生出的不仅是烤鸭，还有春饼，其实便宜坊最初就是卖春饼的盒子菜的。
The typical way of having Peking Roast Duck is to eat them with scallion slices and sweet bean saucespread on lotus-leaf-shaped pancakes rolled around the fillings. This shows the influence of Shandong cuisine along the route when the dish was introduced from Nanjing all the way into Beijing via the Grand Canal. Look, isn’t the lotus-leaf-shaped pancake a delicate version of jianbing (literally fried thin pancake). And eating duck slices with sweet bean sauce and scallion is nothing but more delicate yet basically the same as eating jianbing with chives. Aside from roast duck, the spring pancake also rose in popularity due to the way of eating jianbing rolled around chives and meat. In fact, Bianyifang used to sell spring pancakes initially.
烤鸭还可以有其他吃法：可以夹在两面酥脆的马蹄烧饼里；可以把鸭肉蘸上用鲜酱油泡上的蒜泥，配上爽辣的萝卜条……各有各的味道，各有各的情趣。
Roast duck can be eaten in many other ways: put between two crunchy horse-hoof-shaped shaobing; dipped in mashed garlic soaked in fresh soy sauce and eaten with refreshingly spicy radish strips…each way has its own flavor and fun.
吃烤鸭最好在秋天，那时的鸭子最肥美。一只鸭子片出百十来片丁香叶，每一片上都有肥，有瘦，有皮。夹起一块鸭肉放进嘴里，不用嚼，什么也不蘸，只是咂摸着，吸吮着，那份香醇酥润顷刻消融于唇齿之间，留下满口的丰腴和一缕幽幽的果木香。
Autumn is the best season for having roast duck, because ducks then are the most plump and delicious. One duck can be sliced into about one hundred pieces as thin as clove leaves, each containing fat meat, lean meat and skin. Pick one slice of duck and put it into your mouth. Don’t chew. Don’t dip it with any sauce. Just suck on it. The aroma, crispness and juice permeate your tongue and teeth, leaving behind a mouthful of rich flavor and a trace of faint fruit wood fragrance.
出版社: 商务印书馆
出版年: 2014-7
页数: 343
定价: 39.00元
装帧: 精装