最美中国符号——婺源篁岭
篁岭景区,位于江西省上饶市婺源县江湾镇东南7公里的石耳山脉,篁岭属典型山居村落,民居围绕水口呈扇形梯状错落排布,是经过“整体搬迁、精准返迁、产业融入”打造而成的国家四A级景区。
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虽未及赶上三月篁岭的梯田花海,亦未等待十一月的篁岭晒秋,然则因是五一假期,一大早景区便已游人如织,已然没有之前去过的那些徽州古村的清幽,“最美的中国符号”的盛名早已打破山里的宁静,一如今日的熙熙攘攘。
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村口高大的古树见证了篁岭村的变迁,原住民搬至岭脚新居,原村落修整成风景旅游区,既保留有传统的民俗风情亮点,如老街古巷、竹匾晒秋、酒肆茶坊、砚庄篾铺等,又加入了现代元素创意,如怪屋冒险、溜索缆车、玻璃栈桥、主题民宿等。
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依山而建有上百栋的明清徽派建筑,飞檐翘角,灰墙黛瓦。高高的马头墙在绿树鲜花的簇拥下错落有致、庄重大气,雕花的木门格窗在春日暖阳里明暗交替、古朴典雅。
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天街两边徽式商铺林立,古趣盎然。篾铺前崭新的竹篮、酒肆中排列整齐的酒瓮及窗台上精致的小酒坛,甚至迎窗而立吹笛的店老板,都无不予人与美感。
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挂在山崖上的篁岭古村,因地无三尺平,数百年来,村民们只能利用房前屋后自家墙上凿窗釆光,支架晒物,久而久之便成了一种传统的农俗现象。这便是自然条件的局限激发出了劳动人民无穷的想象和创造力,从而在无意间造就了一处中国绝无仅有的“晒秋人家”风情画。
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每到秋天来临之际,篁岭人家房前屋后及自家窗台屋顶摆满了晾晒的各色果实,每一个角落都上演着一幕幕精彩纷呈的秋收盛宴。
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最早的“篁岭晒秋”是由于来此写生的画家被村民晾晒场景所震撼,从而将此宏大的场面通过画作带出山外。发展到现在,篁岭晒秋被评为“中国最具文化符号”地方。如今,“晒秋”已经成为篁岭最具特色的旅游亮点,一年四季,只要是晴朗天气,都能看到此景观。就如我们这次的晚春时节,赏的依然是“晒秋”一样。
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沿着篁岭村中的石阶小路边行边看,由于山村成了景区,很多的房舍已被修葺一新,游人都可以直接进去参观拍摄。自然,有人住的房子已都是各式商铺了。假如想要享受山村的清晨与黄昏,景区内自有各种特色民宿为游人服务。
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“窗衔篁岭千叶匾,门聚幽篁万亩田”。从高处窗口望去,近处依山错落的屋子窗外皆是各种晾晒的竹匾,彩色的农作物与黛色瓦顶交替展开、井然有序,构成了一幅自然的油画。远处青山作屏、梯田层叠,节奏分明,一曲大自然的交响曲韵味无穷。
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篁岭一日,我用镜头记录下了这里的美景。想像中,篁岭的深秋一定将更美,到那时,屋顶上,红彤彤的辣椒、柿子,金黄色的玉米、菊花,五色的秋叶,这种绚烂将与古老的建筑形成一幅完美的山村秋色图。遗憾的是,作为旅游景点的篁岭村中,缺失了人间的烟火气息,原住民都已搬迁,原汁原味的生活场景无法重现,代之以的那些现代元素与古老的山村总有一种违和感,如同是没有灵气的园林花卉,美则美矣,却不如山野小花,生机勃勃,肆意蔓延。当然,瑕不掩瑜,作为“最美中国符号”的篁岭村,我们亦不虚此行。
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