双语热点：国潮雄起

国潮

China-chic / Nation Tide

01

国潮

被众多西方大牌包围的我们，也许很难感知中国传统美学的模样。但中华文化已存在千年，它不需要被创造，却需要被唤醒。国潮则是肩负唤醒传统之美大任的使者。

传统，正在抖落历史的尘与土，脚步轻快地跟上时代。

首先，我们先辨析易混淆的概念：

民族品牌：国企原创、产权归属中国的自主品牌

国货：中国制造的产品、中国提供的服务

国潮：来源于民族品牌和国货，并具备以下三个元素：

1） 带有中国特色——融入中国元素（来源于中国文化或中国特色技术）

2） 符合时代前沿审美和技术趋势——根植中国，达之国际

3） 展现中国自信——提升中国形象的新名片

故宫和李宁可以说是引领国潮的先驱

故宫——创新文创，紧跟时代——打破时间的刻板印象

李宁——世界秀场，中国底蕴——打破空间的刻板印象

国潮——“冷静地从文化中汲取灵魂，炽热地从创意中寻找未来”

02

国潮崛起的动因

由于西方文化的冲击及内部创新力匮乏，传统文化的品牌力在传播中逐渐损耗，形成“老旧”“死板”等刻板印象。国潮本质上可以看作是重唤国人文化认同，创新传统的一次文化实践。通过对传统文化元素进行重构和创新，国潮撕下了传统文化过气的标签，向消费者展现了中华文化历久弥新的活力。

There is a growing need for brands to integrate and embody a proud new creative identity in China that challenges stereotypes yet celebrates old and new. In recent years, we have witnessed a growing trend of national pride in China, the logical consequence of constant financial growth and dominance. 'China chic' (国潮) is a term that describes the trend of China-centric design, appearing in lists as the 'word of the year' for some time.

1）我买故我在

国潮直击年轻群体，16-25岁消费者成为国潮的主要买单人。国潮传达的象征意义成为展现个性的符号。通过对国潮文化的认同，年轻消费者建构出一种“我很特别，我懂传统但我又很潮”的青年亚文化。

This growing sense of individualism is especially apparent in younger consumers. Chinese Gen Z-ers have significant spending power and put individuality and self-expression first when deciding which brands best represent them

Generation Z seem to be more enthusiastic about traditional and national culture than previous generations. They have grown up in China's rapid development of the internet era, have a stronger cultural confidence and are willing to show Chinese traditional culture to others.

2）抖落历史的尘与土

中国传统文化博大精深、源远流长，为国潮提供了取之不尽、用之不竭的资源库存。通过结合东方美学和国际时尚审美，国潮延展人们对“美”的认知。国潮是一场传统文化与现代生活美学的梦幻联动，牢牢抓住了消费者求美求新的心理。

"I used to feel that traditional Chinese culture is just something that elders like and has nothing to do with me. But after combining the traditional trend with a creative design, I became interested in the China chic products and understood that traditional Chinese culture can also be a cool thing."

故宫文创绝绝子

3）保驾护航的守望先锋

国家近年来一直着力解决供需结构升级及品牌发展问题。2017年，国务院批准将每年5月10日设为“中国品牌日”，全面建构中国品牌矩阵，并不断加大国牌政策扶持力度。除此之外，媒体、电商等产业力量也为国潮发展赋能，人工智能等技术为国潮带来更多场景可能。

Culture certainly moves fast in the east. In China, where platforms like Alibaba and Tencent sprouted up and became an integral part of daily life at a staggering pace, brand building is all about agility and speed.

China chic is taking its turn to lead the world, rather than to follow. And with this, we have seen a new China chic aesthetic emerge. An appreciation of regional nuance, originated from the belief of 'regional uniqueness leads to the path of global acceptance' (越是民族的，越是世界的) and a new level of confidence in the Chinese identity of today.

4）你自信的样子真的很美

文化软实力也是衡量国力强弱的标志之一。随着中国国力增强，我们需要有相应的文化体现形式来承载日益提升的文化认同感。国潮作为文化发展新趋势，已成为中国创意文化崛起的一大吸引力。不再盲目追捧西方的工业文化，理性看待消费文化也是新时代消费者的变化之一。

As China chic develops, it increasingly manifests people’s ambition of reviving traditional heritage in a modern context and reflecting the profound pride in their national identity.

03

新疆棉事件

说到文化自信，不得不谈到前段时间的新疆棉事件。一些洋品牌球鞋因其恶意“封杀”“新疆棉”行为受到中国市场冷落，众多明星纷纷与涉事品牌解约，消费者则拒绝购买这些产品，闹得沸沸扬扬。

“你抵制我的棉花，我抵制你的外国货”，支持国潮品牌的言论持续增多，许多爱国人士更是通过实际的购买行动支持国货，一时间造成市场销售火爆。

Prices of some Chinese limited edition sneakers soared among collectors and speculators following calls for local consumers to boycott global brands that have said they don’t source products or yarn from China’s western Xinjiang region.

西方恶意抹黑—中国抵制—国货价格飙升

--western apparel brands refuse to source cotton from xinjiang

--chinese people lanuch backlash

--prices of domestic sneakers soar

某些品牌不怀好意地抹黑中国，他们称：

Xinjiang authorities use coercive labour programmes to meet seasonal cotton picking needs.

国人用实际行动表达了抵制：

扔掉耐克鞋，商标打马赛克

people have posted photos of themselves throwing away their Nike sneakers or — for the less committed — covering the logos on their sweaters with masking tape.

组织呼吁品牌放弃与辱华供应商的合作

More than 175 organizations launched a campaign to persuade international brands to cut ties with suppliers allegedly tied to using forced Uyghur labor

电商平台下架相关产品

Chinese e-commerce giants Alibaba and JD removed H&M from their online platforms, a big hit given that more than a fifth of China’s shopping is done online, according to the Associated Press.

一众明星解约

Dozens of Chinese celebrities terminated endorsement contracts with H&M and other Western brands.

那结果如何？以H&M为例

Global brands like H&M risked alienating a country of 1.4 billion people.

H&M stores in China disappeared from online maps, according to Barrons.

中国网友表示

For you, China is still an important market，But for China, you are just an unnecessary brand.

新疆棉花如此重要

Even if a brand had no direct relationship with Chinese factories, they can’t completely rule out any links to Xinjiang’s cotton.

所以我们应该认识到，这场舆论战不只关乎品牌名誉，还波及国家形象。各方话语行动背后必定有经济、政治和地缘等因素的考量。

总之，我们要看到国潮的发展和崛起，也要看到国潮在这日益紧张的国际环境下的挑战。

在喧闹中始终保持批判思考，理性看待国潮才是上上策。

References

1. 新华热评：借机哄抬“国货”价格是自断门路

2. 国际时评：揭开“草台班子”BCI的真面目

3. 峰瑞报告：寻找属于中国的经典与时尚-国潮消费研究

4. 清华大学文创院国潮研究报告2020

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