护肤品成分说明

Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) Beta-Hydroxy Acid (Salicylic Acid) Hydroquinone Kojic Acid Retinol Vitamin C Hyaluronic Acid Copper Peptide Alpha-Lipoic Acid DMAE (Dimethylaminoethanol)

α-羟基酸（AHAs）β-羟基酸（水杨酸）对苯二酸曲酸视黄醇维生素C透明质酸铜肽α-硫辛酸DMAE（二甲基氨基乙醇）

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α，β，羟基酸，维生素和衍生物-护肤品上的字眼可能会令人困惑。

这个简单的指南将帮助您了解可能有益于皮肤的成分。然后，如果您仍不确定哪种护肤产品适合您，请咨询您的皮肤科医生或在当地沙龙或美容柜台咨询皮肤美容师。

α-羟基酸（AHA）

α-羟基酸包括乙醇酸，乳酸，酒石酸，苹果酸和柠檬酸。在过去的20年中，它们越来越受欢迎。仅在美国，就有200多家制造商生产含有α-羟酸的护肤产品。

含α-羟基酸的面霜和乳液可能有助于细纹，不规则的色素沉着和老年斑。 α-羟基酸的副作用包括轻度刺激和阳光敏感性。因此，每天早晨都应使用防晒霜。

为了避免使用α-羟基酸刺激皮肤，最好从低AHA浓度的产品开始。另外，让您的皮肤有机会习惯该产品。从隔天涂抹AHA皮肤产品开始，逐步发展到日常使用。不要使用太多；请按照包装上的说明进行操作。

β-羟基酸（水杨酸）

水杨酸可剥落皮肤角质，疏通毛孔，并可以改善其质地和颜色。它还有助于痤疮。

许多护肤产品都含有水杨酸。有些可以通过非处方药购买，而另一些则需要医生处方。研究表明，水杨酸比含有α-羟基酸的护肤品刺激性小，但在改善皮肤质地和肤色方面具有相似的结果。

警告：对水杨酸盐（在阿司匹林中发现）过敏的人不应使用含有水杨酸的产品。水杨酸可被吸收到血液中，并可能引起过敏反应或接触性皮炎。孕妇或哺乳妇女不应使用含有水杨酸的产品。

对苯二酚

含有对苯二酚的皮肤护理产品通常被称为漂白霜或美白剂。这些护肤产品用于减轻色素沉着过度，例如与妊娠或激素治疗（也称为黄褐斑）相关的老年斑和黑斑。

一些非处方护肤产品包含对苯二酚。如果您的皮肤对非处方药没有反应，您的医生还可以开处方对苯二酚含量更高的产品。

如果您对氢醌过敏，可以使用含有曲酸或烟酰胺（维生素B3）的产品。孕妇不能使用对苯二酚。

曲酸

曲酸是用于治疗色素问题和老年斑的最新疗法。曲酸最早于1989年开发，其作用与氢醌相似。曲酸是由一种真菌制成的，研究表明，它对美白皮肤有效。

视黄醇

视黄醇由维生素A制成，并且存在于许多非处方护肤产品中。视黄醇更强的对应物是维甲酸，它是Retin-A和Renova中的活性成分，只能通过处方获得。

如果您的皮肤对使用Retin-A过于敏感，可以使用视黄醇作为替代品，尽管效果不那么令人印象深刻。视黄醇可以改善斑驳的色素沉着，细纹和皱纹，皮肤纹理以及肤色和肤色。

您可能还听说过棕榈酸视黄酯。该产品与视黄醇属于同一家族，但是，如果您选择的护肤产品包含棕榈酸视黄酯，则与含视黄醇的产品相比，您将需要使用更多的这种产品。孕妇或哺乳母亲不能使用视黄醇。

维生素C

维生素C有助于减少细纹，疤痕和皱纹。它是经证实可提高胶原蛋白产量的唯一抗氧化剂，而胶原蛋白是皮肤结构的关键部分。

选择维生素C产品时要挑剔。维生素C最常见的形式是在暴露于氧气时高度不稳定，使其变得无用。在管或泵中选择一个。同样，许多局部使用的维生素C制剂不能充分渗透皮肤，因此无济于事。

如果您正在考虑使用局部维生素C制剂，请询问皮肤科医生哪种产品对您最有效。

玻尿酸

含有透明质酸的护肤产品通常与维生素C产品一起使用，以帮助有效渗透。

透明质酸在人和动物中天然存在（且含量很高），并存在于年轻的皮肤，其他组织和关节液中。

透明质酸是人体结缔组织的一部分，已知具有缓冲和润滑作用。老化会破坏透明质酸。饮食和吸烟也会随着时间的推移影响您体内的透明质酸水平。

含玻尿酸的护肤产品最常用于治疗皱纹皮肤，尽管它们不能替代人体自然失去的任何东西。这些是非常有效的保湿剂。

铜肽

研究表明，铜肽可促进生产

Alpha, beta, hydroxy acids, vitamins, and derivatives -- the words on skin care products can be confusing.

This simple guide will help you understand the ingredients that may benefit your skin. Then, if you're still unsure which skin care products are right for you, ask your dermatologist or consult with a skin aesthetician at your local salon or beauty counter.

Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

Alpha-hydroxy acids include glycolic, lactic, tartaric, malic, and citric acids. They have become increasingly popular over the last 20 years. In the U.S. alone, there are over 200 makers of skin care products containing alpha-hydroxy acids.

Creams and lotions with alpha-hydroxy acids may help with fine lines, irregular pigmentation, and age spots. Side effects of alpha-hydroxy acids include mild irritation and sun sensitivity. For that reason, sunscreen should be used every morning.

To help avoid skin irritation with alpha-hydroxy acids, it's best to start with a product with low concentrations of AHA. Also, give your skin a chance to get used to the product. Start out by applying AHA skin products every other day, gradually working up to a daily application. Don't use too much; follow the instructions on the package.

Beta-Hydroxy Acid (Salicylic Acid)

Salicylic acid exfoliates skin, unclogs pores and can improve its texture and color. It also helps with acne.

Many skin care products contain salicylic acid. Some are available over-the-counter and others require a doctor's prescription. Studies have shown that salicylic acid is less irritating than skin care products containing alpha-hydroxy acids but has similar results in improving skin texture and color.

Warning: People who are allergic to salycylates (found in aspirin) should not use products containing salicylic acid. Salicylic acid can be absorbed into the bloodstream and may cause an allergic reaction or contact dermatitis. Pregnant or nursing women should not use products containing salicylic acid.

Hydroquinone

Skin care products containing hydroquinone are often called bleaching creams or lightening agents. These skin care products are used to lighten hyperpigmentation, such as age spots and dark spots related to pregnancy or hormone therapy (also called melasma).

Some over-the-counter skin care products contain hydroquinone. Your doctor can also prescribe a product with a higher concentration of hydroquinone if your skin doesn't respond to over-the-counter treatments.

If you are allergic to hydroquinones, you can use products containing kojic acid or niacinamide (vitamin B3) instead. Pregnant women cannot use hydroquinone.

Kojic Acid

Kojic acid is a more recent remedy for treating pigment problems and age spots. First developed in 1989, kojic acid has a similar effect as hydroquinone. Kojic acid is made from a fungus, and studies have shown that it is effective at lightening skin.

Retinol

Retinol is made from vitamin A, and it's in many non-prescription skin care products. Retinol's stronger counterpart is tretinoin, which is the active ingredient in Retin-A and Renova, available by prescription only.

If your skin is too sensitive to use Retin-A, retinol is an alternative, although the effects are less impressive. Retinol may improve mottled pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, skin texture, and skin tone and color.

You may also hear about retinyl palmitate. This is in the same family as retinol, but if the skin care product you choose contains retinyl palmitate, you will need to use more of this product than one that contains retinol to get the same effect. Pregnant women or nursing mothers cannot use retinol.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C helps to minimize fine lines, scars, and wrinkles. It's the only antioxidant that is proven to boost production of collagen, which is a key part of skin's structure.

Be choosy when selecting a vitamin C product. Vitamin C in its most commonly found forms is highly unstable when exposed to oxygen, making it useless. Choose one in a tube or a pump. Also, many topical vitamin C preparations do not penetrate the skin enough to make a difference.

If you are considering using a topical vitamin C preparation, ask your dermatologist which product will be the most effective for you.

Hyaluronic Acid

Skin care products containing hyaluronic acid are often used with vitamin C products to assist in effective penetration.

Hyaluronic acid occurs naturally (and quite abundantly) in people and animals and is found in young skin, other tissues, and joint fluid.

Hyaluronic acid is part of the body's connective tissues, and is known to cushion and lubricate. Aging destroys hyaluronic acid. Diet and smoking can also affect your body's level of hyaluronic acid over time.

Skin care products with hyaluronic acid are most frequently used to treat wrinkled skin although they don't replace anything the body has naturally lost. These are very effective moisturizers.

Copper Peptide

Studies have shown that copper peptide promotes the production of collagen and elastin in your skin. It also acts as an antioxidant and promotes production of glycosaminoglycans (such as hyaluronic acid).

Studies have also shown that copper-dependent enzymes help firm, smooth, and soften the skin quicker than most other anti-aging skin care products. In addition, copper peptides have been shown to remove damaged collagen and elastin from the skin and scar tissue.

Be wary of these claims, however, since the effects on your skin may be far less than is seen in laboratory testing.

Alpha-Lipoic Acid

Alpha-lipoic acid diminishes fine lines, gives skin a healthy glow, and boosts levels of other antioxidants, such as vitamin C.

Alpha-lipoic acid can enter all parts of a skin cell. Due to this quality, it is believed that alpha-lipoic acid can provide more protection than other antioxidants against so-called free radicals that can damage skin.

DMAE (Dimethylaminoethanol)

The brain makes DMAE. DMAE in skin care products shows minimal effects at best when applied on skin for the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles.