Lemn Sissay: 'China was a revelation for me'
I’d always have a bag packed, ready to go, until the pandemic
Because of work, I’d be travelling somewhere in the UK every week. When Covid struck, I cancelled trips to Ethiopia, Australia and the US. I’ve stayed in some beautiful places because of what I do, and I’m really lucky in that respect. Holidays are few and far between – but memorable.
I travelled to Lochinver in Scotland for childhood holidays
And I’ve visited a couple of times as an adult. It’s a fishing village in the Highlands near a large mountain called Suilven. There are forests, fields of heather and the River Inver, where you can catch salmon. I go back every 10 years or so.
China was a revelation for me
I went to Changsha in Hunan Province and stayed at the bottom of this mountain called Yuelu. It was covered with maple trees that are so beautiful when they turn red in autumn. I experienced such warmth from the people and I learnt so much about the food. They do a dish called hot pot, which is gorgeous, and I remember eating a delicious kebab of duck. When people travel, they’ll often say, “Oh, the food was lovely” – but if the food is lovely, I believe it’s a reflection of the people.
I’m all about sunshine and beaches on holiday
That, plus good books and decent restaurants, is my ideal. I was in Indonesia for the Bali Literature Festival in 2012 and I stayed at a place called the Amandari. The hotel was a series of independent rooms, each with an outdoor sunken bath. You can watch the stars while you have a luxurious soak.
The first thing I do on holiday by the sea is go into the water to float and look up at the sky
Honestly, it is so beautiful.
Don’t try to replicate home when you go on holiday
It should be a treat. Unfortunately, I’m not one to get a tent out and be in a random field somewhere in the hail and snow.
I loved the Arctic when I went there to a place called Disko Bay
It was with Jarvis Cocker and Laurie Anderson and lots of artists. We went on a science expedition as part of Cape Farewell, a programme that raises awareness of climate change. Some of those guys actually jumped in the freezing sea. I’m not into that; I like my hot weather.
Ethiopia is my favourite place because it’s such an incredible country
Go to Lalibela and visit the rock churches, built down into the ground. Nor should you miss the Simien Mountains, which are very dry but very beautiful. I did a documentary there, called Internal Flight, back in 1995. I flew from Addis Ababa to Gondar, then we travelled by Land Rover and walked a long way to find the site where my father’s plane crashed many years previously. It’s my dream either to attend or curate a literature festival in Addis Ababa.
My first trip to Africa was when I was 21 or 22
That was to Gambia, staying by a place called Fajara Beach. It was a great introduction to the continent because Gambia was quiet then, not as used to tourists as it is now. It was friendly and open, which is what you want really, rather than going to a crazy city like Lagos. Since then, I’ve been all over Africa. I also remember going to Germany to do gigs and sitting on the plane and thinking, “Poetry has put me on a plane. I can’t believe it. I can’t believe this is happening.”
Taprobane Island in Sri Lanka is an amazing Indian Ocean island
It’s straight out of a Bond movie, but is in fact a private house, given over to guests. To get there, you have to walk through water up to your knees to a little white wooden pier, where a waiter is waiting with a towel so you can wipe your legs dry. Most people carry their luggage, though you can get an elephant across to it. You are brought into this colonial-style house and there’s a chef there who makes sure you have whatever food you need.
I’m a big fan of Ethiopian Airlines because my father was a pilot for them
I feel completely connected to them. A couple of years ago, they started flying from Manchester and I went on the inaugural flight. I also love Emirates. It’s always a pleasure to fly with them.
I love Ireland, both Northern Ireland and the Republic
Galway and Cork are beautiful and the west coast is gorgeous. I’d like to have time in a cottage on the west coast, writing but also going for walks in the summer. I’d also love to visit Frat in Ethiopia and see WaterAid’s projects there, which are transforming lives by providing clean water.
Interview by Roz Lewis
Lemn Sissay is supporting WaterAid’s Future on Tap appeal. See wateraid.org for further information.