GLOSSARY | 香原料术语
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从大自然提取出来用来调香的芳香精华有很多操作方法,所以得到的“天地精华”也就有了不同的名字。
同样都是玫瑰“精华”,净油和精油的香味大不相同,净油更贴进玫瑰真实的甜美花香,而普通蒸馏精油由于提取时对原料的损伤更大,她的味道在似蜂蜜,花香,荔枝的基础上更带有一些煮番茄,辛辣和脂蜡味道,大部分时候反而觉得人工调配或者顶空再合成的香气更好闻。就像皮特 王尔德所说:“你永远得不到橙子,而是橙子酱”
When you want to create a perfume, there are many different methods for extracting natural products. So, we get different names for the product.
For instance, Rose Absolute smells so different from Rose Essential Oil as regards natural extract from the rose. The rose absolute is closer to the real petals, whereas essential oil damaged sometime by distillation , together with sweet, floral and lychee, has more cooked, spicy and waxy tomatoes. Just like Peter Wilde said, you're never going to get orange but orange jam.
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以下的中文定义来自上海应用技术大学教授们编写的《日用香精调配技术》一书,英文来自Chemistry of Fragrances. 虽然中英略微出入,但是也有助于从不同角度理解定义啦。
精油Essential Oil
从香料植物的根、花、茎、叶、枝、木、皮、果、籽或泌香动物中加工提取所得到的挥发性含香物质制品的总称。通常用水蒸气蒸馏或压榨法制取的液态天然香料。
Odorant compounds obtained by distillation or cold expression of natural raw materials.
浸膏Concrete
用有机溶剂浸提香料植物器官所得到的香料制品。
The hydrocarbon extraction of the plant material.
香树脂 Resinoid
用有机溶剂浸提香料植物渗出的树脂样物质,最后经除去所用溶剂和水分的香料制品。
The Hydrocarbon extraction from resin, and fnally by removing solvent and water product.
净油Absolute
凡用乙醇萃取浸膏或香树脂或含香蒸馏水的萃取液,冷却后,滤去不溶于乙醇的全部物质,再除去全部乙醇后得到的产物。
Product without waxy substances, obtained by an alcohol wash of the concrete (itself obtained from a volatile solvent extraction of a natural raw material.
定香剂Fixative
指在香精中使用某些不易挥发的成分减慢挥发速度,使整个香精的挥发期限延长。
A fixative is used to prolong the effect of the more volatile ingredients in a perfume formula in an attempt to equalize the rate of evaporation of the component ingredients. Molecules with low vapor pressure are used; these are often resinous, crystalline or high relative molecular mass liquids.
溶剂浸提法
Enfleurage
采用精制的油脂吸附鲜花中的香成分从而其香成分达到饱和程度。
Traditional methods of extracting fragrant plant oil, by absorbing them into a fatty substance, such as tallow, now mostly supplanted by solvent extraction.
谐香Accord
几种香料在一定的配比下形成和谐又有特色的香料组合,香精体香的基础
A blend of perfume ingredients balanced in odour intensity and having a pleasing effect. Generally used as a perfume building block.
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