福岛小城,重获新生

In downtown Namie, a small coastal city in eastern Fukushima prefecture, there was a chorus of construction noise this spring. Truck after truck rolled through, bringing workers to string up power lines and rip down deserted houses, rebuild structures and repave roads.

今年春天,在东部福岛县的海滨小城市浪江町的市中心,建筑工地声响成一片。卡车一辆接一辆地驶过,工人们将电线串联起来,拆毁废弃的房屋,重建建筑,重新铺设道路。

But at night, all was quiet — except in one small corner of a tiny strip mall.

但到了晚上,除了一个小商业街的一个小角落,一切都很安静。

The faint sounds of music, laughter and maybe a hit of tambourine floated on the wind, traveling down empty sidewalks and deserted streets, leading to a karaoke bar in full swing.

微弱的音乐声、笑声,也许还有一阵阵的手鼓在风中飘荡,穿过空荡荡的人行道和废弃的街道,来到一个热闹的卡拉ok酒吧。

Namie was once home to over 21,000 people, a close-knit community of farmers and fishermen, dotted with rice paddies and pastures and a bustling downtown full of shops, schools and restaurants.

浪江町曾经居住着超过2.1万人,是一个由农民和渔民组成的紧密社区,稻田和牧场星罗棋布,熙熙攘攘的市中心挤满了商店、学校和餐馆。

But on March 11, 2011, an earthquake and tsunami triggered explosions at three reactors at the nearby Fukushima Daiichi Nuclear Power Plant, just 5 miles away.

但在2011年3月11日,一场地震和海啸引发了5英里外附近福岛第一核电站的三个反应堆爆炸。

The earthquake rocked the city, while the tsunami devastated the coastal area, washing people and buildings out to sea.

地震撼动了这座城市,而海啸摧毁了沿海地区,将人和建筑物冲入大海。

Those who survived were forced to evacuate, to escape the plumes of radioactive material carried by the wind after the nuclear explosions.

幸存者被迫撤离,以躲避核爆炸后风吹来的放射性物质。

Nearly overnight, Namie became a ghost town — completely sealed off from the public for six years.

几乎一夜之间,浪江变成了一座鬼城——与世隔绝了六年之久。

Slowly though, as radiation levels have decreased, places like downtown Namie have reopened and are starting to come back to life — even if only a fraction of the population has returned.

然而,随着辐射水平的下降,像浪江市中心这样的地方已经重新开放,并开始恢复生机——不过目前只有一小部分人回来了。

The Cosmos Karaoke Bar caters to that fraction, hoping to bring a sense of community back to a town that once thrived on it.

宇宙卡拉ok酒吧就迎合了这部分人的需求,希望能给这个曾经因卡拉ok而繁荣的小镇带来一种社区感。

In March, two giant screens on either side of the room flashed Japanese lyrics while a dozen patrons, mostly men, passed around microphones, singing at the top of their lungs, shaking tambourines and clutching ceramic cups filled with sake and tall glass mugs of beer.

今年3月,房间两侧的两个大屏幕上播放着日本歌词,十几名顾客(大多是男性)在传递麦克风,高声歌唱,摇动铃鼓,手里拿着盛满清酒和啤酒的陶瓷杯。

Things changed in April, when the government declared a national emergency because of the coronavirus pandemic.

今年4月时,情况发生了变化,因为新冠病毒,政府宣布全国进入紧急状态。

Cosmos Karaoke had to close under government orders, in an effort to stop the virus from spreading.

为了阻止病毒传播,这家宇宙卡拉OK也不得不在政府命令下关闭。

The town, like the rest of Japan, ground mostly to a halt.

和日本其他地方一样,这座城镇基本上陷入了封城状态。

But recently, the bar reopened, although business has been slower than before.

但是最近,酒吧重新开张了,不过生意比以前要淡一些了。

The force driving it is Minza Lee, a 63-year-old South Korean woman who has lived in Japan for decades.

推动这一趋势的是63岁的韩国女性李敏扎,她已经在日本生活了几十年。

She opened Cosmos Karaoke in 2018.

2018年时她开办了这家宇宙卡拉OK。

She's a ball of energy, laughing and smiling, greeting every customer by name and often singing along.

她是一个精力充沛的人,总是微笑着问候每一位顾客的名字,还经常跟着唱着歌。

In March, she wore a tight leather jacket embroidered with flowers and a big yellow skirt and a sparkly top as she wandered around the room, urging customers to eat more in a motherly sort of way.

今年3月,她穿着一件绣有鲜花的紧身皮夹克,穿着一条大大的黄色裙子和一件闪闪发光的上衣,在房间里走来走去,像母亲一样鼓励顾客们多吃点东西。

After the Fukushima disaster, she came to Namie from Fukushima City as a volunteer, helping to clean up debris and abandoned buildings.

福岛灾难发生后,她作为志愿者从福岛来到浪江,帮助清理废墟和废弃建筑。

She says she fell in love with the town, with the idea of bringing it back from disaster, helping to bring it to life again — even though many of her friends thought it was a bad idea.

她说,她爱上了这个小镇,想要把它从灾难中拯救出来,帮助它重拾生机——尽管她的许多朋友都认为这不是一个好主意。

"Everyone was against it," she remembered.

“所有人都很反对,”她回忆道。

"They said, 'You're going to live in a nuclear town? You're crazy!'

“他们说,'你竟然要去住在核辐射镇里?你疯了吗?’”

But the more they pushed back, the more I said, 'Yes, I absolutely will.' "

但他们越是反对,我就越是说:'我一定要去。’”

So she moved to Namie for good and opened this bar named after the town flower — one of the most popular blooms in Japan, known as the fall cherry blossom.

因此,她永久地搬到了浪江町,开了一家以“镇花”命名的酒吧。“镇花”是日本最受欢迎的花之一,被称为“秋季樱花”。

She hung big, long posters on the walls showing pink and purple cosmos flowers, which appear to be dancing to the near-constant music.

她在墙上挂着大而长的海报,上面画着粉红色和紫色的宇宙花,这些花似乎随着几乎不间断的音乐起舞。

The room is filled with glittery blue velvet booths topped with big floral pillows.

房间里满是闪闪发光的蓝色天鹅绒展位,上面放着大大的花枕头。

The ceiling is painted like a bright blue sky with fluffy white clouds.

天花板被漆成明亮的蓝色天空,缀有蓬松的白云。

"When I first came here, it was so depressing. Everything was rotting and falling apart," Lee said in March.

“我第一次来这里的时候,感觉很压抑。一切都在腐烂和分崩离析,”李在3月说。

"So I decided that I had to bring the light, the brightness, the energy."

“所以我决定我必须给这里带来光、亮度和能量。”

She pointed to the glitter, the decorations, the ceilings — as if wanting to show evidence that she accomplished what she had set out to do.

她指了指闪光的、装饰的、天花板的——好像想要证明她已经完成了她的目标。

In the kitchen in the back, a small staff prepared mostly Korean food, with no set menu — plates of kimchi and rice cakes started flowing as soon as customers sat down.

在后面的厨房里,一小群工作人员准备的大多是韩国菜,没有固定的菜单——顾客一坐下,一盘盘的泡菜和年糕就源源不断地端出来了。

It's one of the few places to get food in town.

这是城里为数不多的吃东西的地方之一。

Since 2017, Namie has seen progress and new businesses have sprung up.

自2017年以来,浪江开始看到了进步,新企业如雨后春笋般涌现。

There are several ramen shops open for lunch and a few new hotels.

开了几家营业的拉面店和几家新酒店。

The main train line was recently rebuilt to connect with major cities like Sendai, about 60 miles to the north, and Tokyo, about 150 miles south.

最近,主要的铁路线路进行了重建,以连接北部约60英里的仙台和南部约150英里的东京等大城市。

But there isn't much entertainment for the 1,000 or so people who have come back to live here, many of whom are elderly.

但对于回到这里居住的大约1000人来说,这里并没有太多的娱乐活动,其中许多人都是老年人。

That's why Cosmos opens in the late afternoon — for them.

因此,宇宙卡拉OK会在下午晚些时候才开门——就是为了照顾他们。

In one corner booth in March, three friends in their 70s toasted one another over plates of seafood and scallion pancakes and grilled pork-belly lettuce wraps.

今年3月,在街角的一个摊位里,三位70多岁的朋友在一盘盘海鲜、葱油饼和烤猪肉肚莴苣卷上相互烤着。

The men used to be neighbors in Namie, but after the disaster, they scattered to different areas.

两名男子曾经是浪江的邻居,但灾难发生后,他们分散到了不同的地区。

Only one lives back in Namie now.

如今只有一人搬回了浪江。

They try to meet up as often as they can and remember the lives they once had together in the town.

他们现在会尽可能多地见面,回忆他们曾经在镇上一起度过的日子。

"We used to all meet up in our old neighborhood, but now, it's a total ghost town, totally empty... except for the animals that have taken over our homes," said Masato Yamazaki, 76, with a wry laugh.

“我们以前都在老社区聚会,但现在,那里完全是鬼城,空无一人……除了那些占领了我们家园的动物。”76岁的山崎雅人苦笑着说。

He said he wished that Cosmos Karaoke had even more customers, that more people had come back to Namie.

他说,他希望宇宙卡拉ok能有更多的顾客,希望有更多的人回到浪江。

He pointed out that his friends were drinking iced oolong tea, since they had a long drive home.

他指出,他的朋友们喝的其实是冰乌龙茶,因为他们要开很远的车回家。

"But it's nice to have this place, to meet and reminisce," he said.

“但是有这个地方真好,可以见面追忆往事,”他说。

And, of course, sing.

当然了,还可以唱歌。

Yamazaki's favorite tunes are old Japanese love songs — which he sang often that March night, much to the delight of his friends, who clapped and cheered.

山崎最喜欢的曲调是古老的日本情歌——在那个三月的夜晚,他经常唱这首歌,让他的朋友们高兴得拍手欢呼。

The construction workers who've been painstakingly rebuilding the town have also moved here, at least for now.

辛辛苦苦重建小镇的建筑工人也搬到了这里,至少现在是这样。

Lee said this is exactly why she committed to opening this bar — to bring people together.

李女士说她开这家卡拉OK的目的就在于——让人们能聚在一起。

"I know my contribution — a karaoke bar — is small," she said, looking around.

“我知道我的贡献——卡拉ok酒吧——很小,”她环顾着四周说道。

"But it's important."

“但也是很重要的。”

问题

文中提到福岛核电站爆炸发生在哪一年?

留言回复正确答案,前十名朋友可以获得红包奖励哦,赶快来试试吧!

The End

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